Short answer: on a 1/16 in [1.6 mm] stainless wall, a #6-32 tap picks up 2 of the 7 threads a full-strength joint wants. Mount your sub-1 lb [0.45 kg] drivers on self-clinching studs — stud makers rate their stainless lines for sheet down to 0.020 in [0.5 mm] — or on blind rivet nuts. Keep every screw tip inside the gasketed envelope. A tap still suits a snug, permanent part on a 12 ga [0.105 in] plate, where 3 usable threads survive deburring. The sealed wall adds a second rule. Our 304 and 316L boxes are rated NEMA 4X / IP66 by the manufacturer; they are not UL listed. The rating holds while every fastener you add stays inside the wall. The steps below take you from hole layout to a mount that holds through machine vibration.
What you need
Gather these before the box is open:
- The drive manuals, for mounting screw size, torque and the cooling spacing each driver calls for.
- #6-32 self-clinching studs cataloged for 0.060 in [1.5 mm] stainless sheet, or blind rivet nuts whose grip range covers your wall.
- #6-32 machine screws long enough to run full thread in the stud, with medium-strength threadlocker.
- A #36 drill (0.1065 in on the tap-drill chart) and a 6-32 tap, used only on a plate 12 ga [0.105 in] or thicker.
- A drill and cutting oil, deburring tool, arbor press or C-clamp for clinching, a rivet-nut pull tool, and a shop vacuum.
Your drivers' 0.144 in holes are the close fit for a #6 screw, whose major diameter is 0.138 in (clearance-drill tables). The same drawing works for either fastener; only the wall-side half changes.
Choosing the fastener for the wall thickness
Wall thickness decides it. At 32 threads per inch, each #6-32 thread costs 0.031 in of steel. A 1/16 in wall yields 2 threads, a 14 ga plate about 2.4, a 12 ga plate about 3.4 (manufacturers' standard gauge). If your drawing calls a #6-40, the finer 40-pitch lifts the count from 2.0 to 2.5 in the same wall — not enough to change the decision. The metric check says the same: an M8 tap at a 1.25 mm pitch holds 1.3 threads in a 1.6 mm sheet, and deburring can leave less than one full thread.
| Wall | Usable #6-32 threads | Fastener for a sub-1 lb driver | Screw tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/16 in [1.6 mm] | 2 | Self-clinching stud or blind rivet nut | Inside the wall |
| 14 ga [1.9 mm] | ~2 | Clinched fastener | Inside the wall |
| 12 ga [2.7 mm] | ~3 | Tap (#36 drill) with threadlocker, permanent part | Inside the wall |
| Any | — | Self-drilling screw driven through the wall | Outside the wall — the rating mistake below |
Both clinched options move the thread into metal of their own. A blind rivet nut carries the full thread and grips the panel in compression, so wall thickness stops limiting pull-out. A clinching stud does the same from 0.020 in [0.5 mm] of 300-series stainless upward, with stainless lines cataloged at 0.060 in [1.5 mm], 0.090 in [2.3 mm] and heavier, and #6-32 among the threads. The stud's hole runs near the shank diameter, smaller than the 0.144 in clearance holes on your drivers; the datasheet prints the exact size and the minimum edge distance. It is the same cold-flow install that sets self-clinching nuts in a backplate.
Threads and load for a sub-1 lb driver on a 1/16 in wall
Inputs. Wall: 0.0625 in [1.6 mm] of stainless, the 1/16 in plate in question. Screw: #6-32 UNC, 0.138 in major diameter, 32 threads per inch, pitch 0.031 in (standard UNC thread data). Engagement rule: 1.0-1.5 screw diameters of engaged thread, with 1.5D the figure machining handbooks use where the tapped material is much weaker than the screw. Load: one driver under 1 lb, so 4.4 N shared by its four screws. One assumption to replace with your machine's numbers: a 3 g jolt as the vibration multiplier.
Rule in words. Engaged threads equal wall thickness divided by pitch. Full joint strength wants 1.5 × 0.138 = 0.207 in of engaged length. Pull-out scales with engaged threads, because each thread adds its share of shear area.
Arithmetic. 0.0625 ÷ 0.031 = 2.0 threads, before deburring bites into the first. The rule asks 0.207 ÷ 0.031 = 6.6 threads, so 7. The tap delivers 2 ÷ 6.6, about 30% of full engagement. Static load per screw is 4.4 ÷ 4 = 1.1 N; at a 3 g jolt it is 1.1 × 3 = 3.3 N.
Result. Two threads carrying 3.3 N on a jolt, in a joint the rule would size at 7 threads for full strength.
Decision. Tap the wall only where engagement reaches the rule: at 32 threads per inch that takes 0.207 in of steel, a thickness no enclosure wall carries. So decide by duty. A tapped hole fits a permanent, snug part on a 12 ga plate or thicker, with threadlocker. Anything you will unscrew again, or anything riding a vibrating machine, gets its thread from metal thicker than the wall — a clinching stud from 0.020 in up, or a blind rivet nut.
Installing the studs and mounting the drivers
- Lay the four drivers out on the inside back wall or backplate, with the cooling spacing each manual calls for, plus wiring space behind them. The backplate layout guide plans rail, duct and terminals.
- Send the hole layout to the factory where you can. The cutout designer takes each hole's position and diameter on catalog or custom sizes and travels with your quote request. The box arrives with the holes cut, delivered in 10 business days from your order, and from your approval of the drawing on custom work.
- Drill from inside with a block of wood behind the wall, low speed and cutting oil; stainless work-hardens, so keep the bit cutting. Deburr both faces — the stainless cutting guide has bit choice and speeds.
- Confine the chips: tape a paper catcher below each hole, vacuum the box out, then wipe the gasket channel with a lint-free cloth before anything closes.
- Clinch the studs: seat each in its hole and squeeze slowly in an arbor press or C-clamp until the head sits flush; the knurled shank cold-flows the sheet into its grooves. Pull rivnuts until the shank collapses hard against the wall.
- Mount each driver on #6-32 screws with full thread in the stud, a drop of threadlocker, and the manual's torque; handbook fastener tables put a #6-32 steel screw near 10-15 in-lb [1.1-1.7 N·m].
- Bond the plate and the drivers. Run the equipment grounding conductor to the plate and each drive's ground terminal, sized from the upstream overcurrent device per NEC Table 250.122; the grounding and bonding guide covers a stainless body.
- Close up on a clean gasket: channel free of chips, gasket even all round, door closing to an even gap, every screw tip short of the outer face.
Checks when the box is closed up
- Pull each driver by its body: a 4.4 N part should take a firm hand pull with no movement at the screws.
- Re-check torque after 24 h, when the threadlocker has cured, and again after the first heat cycle.
- Run the drivers for an hour at working load and read case temperature against the manual. The plate sheds drive heat by conduction, which is why the mount is metal to metal; the sealed enclosure conductive cooling article puts numbers on the wall path.
- Confirm what the assembly claims after the holes and devices: the article on what a panel keeps after you cut it and mount devices walks that check.
Mistakes that cost the Type 4X rating
- Driving a self-drilling screw through the rear wall. The tip sits outside the wall, and the assembly keeps only what its weakest added penetration gives; the article on screws through a control panel wall explains what survives.
- Chips left in the gasket channel. One chip under the gasket is a leak path at hose-test pressure; vacuum and wipe before the door closes.
- A rubber pad under the drivers. It quiets vibration and traps the heat the plate should shed; isolate the machine or the whole backplate instead.
- Oversize holes for a loose fit. A clinch stud needs its datasheet hole to cold-flow properly, so drill the printed size.
- A through-wall screw closed with a dab of sealant. Where a screw must cross the wall, use the sealing hardware and steps in the through-wall screw sealing article.
What to put on the order
- Material: 304 stainless (#4 brushed) for indoor washdown, food and most outdoor sites; 316L for salt air, brine and chlorides.
- Holes: every driver mounting hole with position and diameter (0.144 in for #6 clearance), plus glands and any operator or display openings, all laid out in the cutout designer.
- Body: a custom size with depth to clear the drivers and their wiring, built from one piece — the custom enclosure builder sets material, dimensions and cutouts.
- Delivery: delivered in 10 business days, counted from your approval of the drawing on a custom size.
Order the holes with the box, clinch the studs on your bench, and the mount carries its load and keeps its rating.
Catalog dimensions to compare
Compare these catalog dimensions with your component layout. Open each enclosure for its rating, material and usable space, then check those specifications against your application.
| Enclosure | Material | Outside H x W x D / display | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 × 10 × 6 in | 304 stainless | 12 x 10 x 6 in | Rated NEMA 4X / IP66 by the manufacturer; not UL listed |
| 16 × 14 × 8 in | 304 stainless | 16 x 14 x 8 in | Rated NEMA 4X / IP66 by the manufacturer; not UL listed |
| 20 × 16 × 8 in | 304 stainless | 20 x 16 x 8 in | Rated NEMA 4X / IP66 by the manufacturer; not UL listed |
Questions
Will a #6-32 screw hold in 1/16 in sheet metal?
It picks up 2 threads, about 30% of the 7 threads a 1.5-diameter engagement rule wants, so it carries a sub-1 lb driver at 1.1 N per screw until a shock or a service pull strips it. Put the thread in a nut instead: a self-clinching stud works in 300-series stainless down to 0.020 in [0.5 mm], and a blind rivet nut carries the full thread at any panel thickness.
Do self-clinching studs work on a 0.0625 in stainless wall?
Yes. Stud lines are cataloged by sheet thickness, with stainless selections at 0.060 in [1.5 mm] and 0.090 in [2.3 mm], and the family installs in 300-series stainless down to 0.020 in [0.5 mm]. Pick the line matching your wall, squeeze the stud flush with an arbor press, and the thread sits fully inside the sealed wall.
How close to the enclosure edge or a cutout can a clinched stud sit?
The datasheet sets it, and it is generous compared with a tapped hole: a clinch stud needs sheet around its grooved shank to cold-flow into, typically a minimum edge distance of about twice the hole diameter on stainless lines for 0.060 in [1.5 mm] sheet. Keep the same clearance from a cutout edge, and keep the whole pattern inside the wall so no fastener crosses the gasket.
Can I mount drivers through the back wall and keep the enclosure sealed?
Keep every fastener inside the wall. A self-drilling screw through the rear wall leaves its point outside, and the assembly keeps only what its weakest added penetration gives. Mount the drivers on the backplate with clinched fasteners; where a screw must cross the wall, seal the penetration with the hardware the drawing specifies.





